Two weeks in northern wilderness, from hut to hut both in depressive somberness of the ending Arctic daylight and first, glittering chords of Laponian wintertime. Straight from the russian bus from Murmansk to the woods at Raja Jooseppi and further south to Jaurujoki valley, to cross Devil's Gate "Pirunportti" pass then heading towards Suomunjoki river valley with happy final in deserted those days Saariselka, where, to my amazement I met ...my Finnish companion from last winter's Korvatunturi ski hike - Jani. Big woods, small world. Urho Kekkonen National Park, Lapland, Finland, 19.10-2.11.2015.