Guide de montagne des Tatras, Tomasz Świst, Tatra highest peaks, Rysy


Rysy (SVK Rysy, GER Meeraugspitze, HUN Tengerszem-csúcs) – 2503 m
Three summited peak in the central part of High Tatra range on Polish/Slovak borderline. Three summits from which the middle one located entirely on Slovak side is the highest one - 2503 m asl. The north-western one of Rysy summits is the highest elevated point of Poland - 2499 m asl.
Most favorable ascent route:
Marked trails from both Polish and Slovak side: 1)Red marks from North from Morskie Oko lake(UIAA 0+, partly insured with artificial facilities: chains). 2)Red marks from South, from Mengusovska valley via sedlo Vaha pass(UIAA 0+, most demanding traverses insured with chains). Rysy is the highest Tatra peak accessible with marked routes. Between 1st November and 15th June every year Slovak trail to Rysy is officialy closed due to National Park regulations.
Massive peak rising south-east to Morskie Oko lake cirque, main Tatra ridge and lateral(northern ridge with Niznie Rysy and Zabie peaks) ridge culmination.
Rysy peak rises between three high elevated passes of: Zabia, Pod Rysami, Vaha and above three valleys: Rybiego Potoku(on polish side), Bielovodska and Mengusovska.
When viewed from Morskie Oko shores Rysy presents rather inconspicuously, slightly eclipsed and dominated by Niznie Rysy peak which, though lower elevated seems to be the higher one. Summit panorama from Rysy, one of the highest elevated Tatra peaks, so favorably, centrally located is regarded as one of the richest and most beautiful ones in whole Tatra range(WHP). One can admire nearly all major summits, many valleys and several lakes from up there.
To quote Witold H. Paryski: "The name of Rysy peak, counter to the state that is often alleged, doesn't come from neither long, diagonal rocky couloir of "rysa"(the scuff) located along rocky perch where the marked trail from Morskie Oko goes nor from lynx("ryś" in Polish). Long ago the name of Rysy was used to be given by the local highlanders to the whole Niznie Rysy, Wyzni Zabi Szczyt and Zabi Mnich peaks area and the name was moved to present Rysy peak much later. The name most likely derives from strongly carved and cracked slopes of mentioned group peaks when viewed from Czarny Staw pod Rysami lake.
German and Hungarian names come straight from the name of Morskie Oko lake.
First documented ascents:
In summer: Eduard Blásy with guide Ján Ruman Driečny senior - 30th July 1840
In winter: Theodor Wundt with guide Jakob Horvay - 10th April 1884
"Nothing in this world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful people with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. The slogan "press on" has solved and always will solve the problems of the human race." - Calvin Coolidge
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